The mornings are dark. It was just last week I could paddle out for a surf and soak up the morning’s warmth at 6am. Now it is almost pitch black. A tell-tale sign that autumn is on its way. Fall colours are lacking, those iconic shades of orange and yellow that signify the end of…
The crisp cool air caressed my cheek. The birds in the bushes beside me began to stir. All else was silent. Only the waves breaking on the sandbar broke the stillness. I gazed down at the beach. I could see a lone fisherman, rubbing his eyes, forcing them to adjust to the changing light. He…
Most people (aka non-surfers) believe we’re laidback to the point of laziness. We may enjoy a good old Spanish-style siesta, but what you don’t see is us up before dawn in search of the perfect wave. In general, we’re coming back from our first surf of the day as everyone else blinks their eyes open…
“Tap, tap, tap…” I rolled over on my mattress with a groan. “Tap, tap, tap, tap, tap…” The smell of smoke from the night before lingered in my nostrils. I reached for my phone to turn off the alarm. I could have sworn I didn’t set it the day before. Nothing. I knew I didn’t…
“Dolphins!” I heard shouted from somewhere deep within the house. I stopped unwrapping my new GoPro and ran out onto the balcony. Already a large crowd had gathered on the headland pointing at the pod which had just joined the line-up. The first dolphins of the season. A pair dropped in on one of the…
