Why do we do it? For many, we must seem like crazy people to get up at dawn and paddle out into icy shark-infested waters for a quick surf before work. What many of these people haven’t experienced, is the sheer joy of a life shared with the ocean. Similarly, they most definitely have never…
For those of you out of the loop, last year I was diagnosed with medial sesamoiditis. You can get all the deets of my sad saga here: How Sesamoiditis Isn’t Going to Keep Me From Surfing & Travelling. So last time I wrote, the possibility that I would return to a normal active life were…
A blessing and a curse, Creator and destroyer, The wind. Wind swells and windswept, Onshore and offshore, It persists. Radars and forecasts, Sheltered and open, Location chosen. White caps and barrels, Choppy or smooth, Surf or not? This is the wind, This is our life.
Sometimes the wind is against you. Sometimes not only the wind, but the banks, the swell and let’s not forget the weather in general; lightning whilst being alone in the line-up isn’t very appealing. So here’s the top 5 things to fill your time during a lull: The Surf Check Your home breaks may…
Last Thursday marked a life changing moment, I went sugar-free. I’m still not sure whether it was a good idea, but I’m definitely giving it my all. Why did I make this shocking decision? With a lifelong epic sweet tooth, my diet comprised of three main healthy meals each day and an abundance of chocolate,…
