The boat pulls up to a remote bank. I search the shoreline for any indication as to why we have stopped. A man climbs down onto the sand, followed by bags and crates full of supplies. Within seconds, from nowhere, children run along the sandy banks to the man. They leap into his arms and onto his back. With children with large smiles climbing all over him, he crouches over to check he has everything with him. A quick shout out to the captain and the boat begins to pull away. I watch as the children continue to grasp onto the man, who then joins in the loving embrace now his work and disembarkation is over.
We round a bend in the river and I watch an elderly man coating the base of his canoe with a new layer of sealant. Around him cows laze on the banks, having a break from feeding on the lushous grasses that line the shoreline of the Mekong. I feel as if I have stepped into Jurassic Park as we amble along the river, slowly getting closer to Luang Prabang. The Mekong is refreshing after a day in a minivan from Chiang Mai to the border.
The slow boat creaks and the engine pounds as the day draws nearer its close. I hope we reach Pak Beng (our stop for the night) before dark. Unlike the first night of our journey where we stayed on the border, tonight is not included in our trip. The sun dips out of view and the sky transforms through a rainbow. I step off the boat in Pak Beng just as the last light of the day fades and night consumes my surroundings.
The serene relaxation I had been immersed in all day is quickly broken. Hustlers! Locals begin to fight over potential guests, who are all motionless. Stunned as if they have been slapped in the face. One of our group quickly finds a place to stay that fit us all at the price we want, and we make our way into Pak Bang. The hustlers continue to chase us even when our minds are set on the guesthouse we are heading towards. One hustler in particular becomes aggressive, targeting our host and the girls of the group with abuse. Our host ushers us forward and eases the tension by telling us which insult is coming next. Apparently this is a daily occurrence as she hit it on the nail. We burst out in giggles and continue to the guesthouse unharrassed.
There’s not much happening in Pak Bang. The small town, our first real experience of Laos life, is definitely on the quiet side. We watch from the Indian restaurant other travellers seeking out bars or other forms of entertainment, before settling at the same restaurant, which is the busiest in town. No surprise as the food is exquisite. Everyone is unsure about what time we have to be at the boat in the morning with times ranging between 8am and 10:30am, so we head home for an early night.
Ready for another day on the boat we buy supplies and head down to the pier. Arriving at 9:30am, we take some of the last seats on board. However it is over an hour before we take off from the shore again. But I am soon transfixed and mesmerised by the river and life on the banks. I melt into my pillow bought for the journey and forget all about the loud humming of the engine which occasionally splutters, causing rumours of boats crashing each day on the river.
All too soon, the ride is over and the boat deposits us outside of Luang Prabang at a government run pier. From here we have no choice but to take a tuk tuk or taxi van into town for 20 000 Laos Kip. Tempers rise as travellers demand to be taken into town for free as they booked a ticket to Luang Prabang pier not outside of town. Locals advise the slow boats no longer use that pier and this was constructed instead to accommodate the number of people now using the service. Whether or not this is true I don’t know, but it was built for Westerners as all the notifications and price signage around the complex is in English.
Energy dropping, we climb aboard our tuk tuk after paying our fee at the “official” desk. I soak in the scenery and let the complaints and constant bickering about the “scam” situation drop into the background. As we enter Luang Prabang, this bickering stops instantly and excitement begins to grow as we anticipate what our time here will become.
The traveller booked her journey to Luang Prabang from Manee Guesthouse in Chiang Mai. After receiving a loyal guest discount the whole three day journey cost 1550THB including mini van to border, stop in at Chiang Rai’s White Temple, one night’s accommodation, one dinner, breakfast and packed lunch.