Lost in Transit – Lost in Bari

Sunset over Bari, Italy.

Trains in Italy are a funny system in deed. They leave on time, have strange routes involving backtracking down same piece of track then arriving early. Then unfortunately those wanting to catch that train will luck out as it will not wait around for correct departure time at stations. I feel sorry for those who wanted to get on the train at Bari Centrale when I arrived as it was long gone by 12pm when it was scheduled for 12:08.

For me though it was a new city for the day before heading further East to Dubrovnik. Like usual no research has been undertaken before departing this direction so following the all too familiar tourist information signs. Too easy across the street from station and she speaks English. Maybe today will be a good day, not horrible like those who had just come to Rome this way doing the reverse to myself.

“Catching the ferry today? How long do you have?” Obviously most travelers who pass through here are just using the ferry service. Bari is a port providing those in Italy a path to Croatia and Greece to big stops on most backpackers venture through Europe. Here I thought I was off the beaten track with no other traveller seen in my carriage the four our journey to Bari from Rome. I explained my itinerary and how I have minimum 6 hours to kill before I can check in for my ferry to Dubrovnik. “Ahh si si. Ok we are here, here is the historic town centre, very beautiful, there a cathedrals and piazza’s here and here,” drawing lines and circling different sections of the map. “You should just go and get lost for 6 hours and then eat at one of the many bars and cafes in the two main Piazza’s. Have a lovely trip, ciao!” That was it information given and she moved straight to the next couple who walked in. Armed with a map I followed the line, after all getting lost may just be what I need.

The first half hour walking around the historic centre I stumbled across one of the Cathedrals that offered a shady seat on its steps and a view of the Castillo. Maybe she was on the ball this was a lovely way to spend the day. Ate a snack of pretzels and walnuts and watched a group of young boys in constant chatter in Italian at a speed that could beat any group of girls. With unearned confidence I thought who needs a map obviously I know where I’m going let’s go to one of these piazzas. Off I set again pack on my back and the fiery sun burning down raising the afternoon temperatures in those narrow streets. An hour past and I had successfully found five different routes back to the same cathedral, had severe back pain and mild heat stroke. “Who’s bright idea was this!” I shouted at myself receiving some odd looks off the locals. I mustn’t be an unfamiliar site lost in the labyrinth of streets in the historic centre carrying all I own on my back. Bridled with frustration I found my way somehow to Via Venezia, the top of the wall and found some shade and gave in. Time to cool off and consult the map.

With new vigour I followed my map with very strict control over my wandering nature and within minutes I was in the Piazza I thought I was originally aimed at to find only one restaurant open as I had missed lunchtime and entered siesta time in my stumble lost through Bari’s streets. One table left it must be destiny. I had not made it out of Italy without a pizza, as it was all that was on offer. With lousy service and very pushy beggar grabbing everyone for money whilst they ate their meals I was able to spend several hours sitting there trying to eat the entire pizza as food on the pending ferry to Dubrovnik was rumoured to be quite pitiful. Washed down with a gelato it was time to wander towards the port and see what it was about. Haunted by the information girls words “it’s not safe there, don’t spend any time there, it is not a tourist port.”

Sure of my bearings and unsure what I was headed into I was on my way. Armed with a map and a view of the sea there was no way I could get lost and made it to the port entrance without any hassles. Note to all commuters through Bari there is bathrooms, lockers and places to grab food/drinks inside the Port.

Writing this from my ferry to Dubrovnik I realise I quite enjoyed my day lost in Bari – will definitely store my backpack in a locker next time though.