Why do we do it? For many, we must seem like crazy people to get up at dawn and paddle out into icy shark-infested waters for a quick surf before work.
What many of these people haven’t experienced, is the sheer joy of a life shared with the ocean. Similarly, they most definitely have never experienced a good wetty that keeps them snug – even in the middle of winter I can be too hot!
Our media frenzied “shark infested” waters is also a stretch. After all, sharks don’t lurk off our beaches in the hope we will paddle into their jaws so they can have a sneaky second breakfast.
So what makes non-surfers so sceptical of our lifestyle?
For one, they have never experienced the pure stoke you get from riding a wave – or they’ve tried and failed making them distain surfers due to their own inability. Surfers over the years have experienced an array of negative stereotypes, from slackers to druggos and hippies. But this isn’t true, surfers come in all shapes, forms and career paths.
In addition to missing out on the stoke, non-surfers miss the peace and serenity you experience while sitting out in the line-up. For me, I sit centre stage in an exquisite amphitheatre, constructed of a natural sandstone grandstand, the trees my audience. Every time I paddle out I know I’m blessed.
A pure example of how lucky we are as surfers happened not too long ago. I took a friend out for her first surf in over three years! It was cloudy and a cold breeze was blowing – but that didn’t deter us from paddling out. As she caught her first wave, the stoke on her face said it all, to make the afternoon even sweeter, a pod of dolphins decided to drop by and hang out. For some, this story may sound like a stretch of the truth, but I promise you it was real.
Nature definitely lit up for us that afternoon, because on top of the dolphins the clouds parted and the sun illuminated the sea for us to soak up its rays. These are everyday occurrences for surfers around the world
People who don’t spend their life in sync with the ocean probably still won’t believe these magical moments exist. But the moment they experience it, they will be hooked.
Some surfers try to share the magic by inviting others into our domain, while others keep it to themselves so their line up doesn’t get any more crowded. What are your thoughts?