Arriving into the unknown in the dead of night is always an exciting experience. Our minds like to amp up everysense and next thing you know there’s talk of kidnappers, murder mysteries, the birthplace of a good travel/ghost story. Before getting on my bus from the Northern tip of Argentina, close to the Brazilian border, I located just one hostel online at my destination, booked a bed and scribbled down the address on a scrap piece of paper. I was headed to Posadas. Posadas is located on Rio Parana which divides Argentina from Paraguay. This city made my itinerary for one purpose only – to use the city as an access point to Paraguay and the Jesuit mission ruins in Trinidad, Paraguay.
My destination – Jesuit Mission of Trinidad Ruins, Paraguay.
Late at night Posadas’s bus station didn’t seem too out of the ordinary and gave no threat of imminent danger; no one seemed to be lurking in the shadows bearing sinister thoughts openly on their faces. In fact everyone seemed quite happy and lovely. The taxi rank however gave an instant adrenaline rush as I noted several beaten up cars with Taxi signs duct-taped to the roof. After selecting one that had a meter for the journey I was off and learnt that a red light in this city had the same definition as a green until I reached an unsigned door in a residential area. Could this be the right place? After negotiating in my very poor Spanish I arranged for the driver to wait until I confirmed this was actually a hostel with a bed for the night. Knock, knock…lights switched on and I was welcomed into the building with the warmth of one being reunited with a lost family member. I was in.
Rising the next morning to explore the full extent of my new temporary dwelling, I was delightfully surprised at the calm, relaxing atmosphere compared to my adventurous taxi ride the night before. I walk around several hammocks until I saw it. An amazing vista of Rio Parana with Paraguay in the distance on the opposite shoreline. Stepping out into the street to locate the Paraguayan embassy to get my one day visa, I again am surprised by the tranquillity of the city and find myself straying from my purpose of obtaining a visa for my journey to the Jesuit ruins of Trinidad Paraguay and explored the city of Posadas instead – which is absolutely beautiful. Lunchtime arrived and it was time to get this paperwork underway. The Paraguay Embassy in Posadas is worth a visit even if you are not requiring a visa. It is filled with the most interesting characters; I could have spent all day in this building – well I almost did. After 4 hours of going in and out to gather documents, fees and photos required to process the visa (you are sent out with a lift of one item at a time) I had my visa. Tomorrow would be the day.
A house with a water view. Posadas, Argenitna.
There is a bridge to Encarnacion from Posadas and buses run regularly. However halfway across the bridge you are required to jump off and get on a different bus for the rest of your journey into Paraguay and it is absolute mayhem. Many locals cross the border for cheaper shopping daily and I instantly felt I was trying to catch a train in Delhi. Note to all travelers you need to get stamped out of Argentina at the first stop on the bridge then into Paraguay at the halfway point. If you miss a stamp you may find you are stuck in no man’s land negotiating your way back to the first check point and trying to explain you need a stamp out of Argentina not another entrance stamp. This is very difficult when your Spanish is as horrible as mine. On your return to Argentina this process is repeated and if you miss one stamp it could result in you missing the last bus back to Posadas or just scrambling aboard as it leaves. When the bus stops on the bridge at these checkpoints locals will stay on board but travelers jump off and locate an official in uniform brandishing that much desired stamp. Returning to the journey into Paraguay the second bus you fight your way onto halfway across the bridge will drop you into the heart of Encarnacion. From here I had to navigate my way through the streets with help from locals to the main bus station. I jumped on a bus pointed out by a passer-by and hoped it was going past Trinidad, which to my delightful surprise it did several hours later.
This may all seem as if it is too much effort to visit this one place. However it was worth every second. Some say ruins are ruins; go to Rome. However the Jesuit ruins in Trinidad are absolutely breath-taking and after many hours of exploration in and around the ruins it was time to figure out a way home. There are several other ruin sites in the area worthy of exploration if you have the time and you can visit them all on the one pass purchased at the ruins of Trinidad. Catching a bus back to Encarnacion entailed waiting on the side of the road were we were dropped off for an hour until a bus finally came into view and madly flagging it down hoping we were on the correct side of the road to head back. Again a success!
My friend on the side of the road. Trinidad, Paraguay.
Back to Posadas’s one hostel, grab backpack, head to the bus station and out of this magical place wishing I wasn’t due somewhere else and could stay longer.
I’m planning on doing the same next year when I’m traveling in South America! Going to Posadas and spending one day in Paraguay to visit the ruins in Trinidad. I assume you were traveling solo, did you feel unsafe anywhere during this daytrip? Good thing you mentioned the stamps, I’m going to remember that one!
Hi Melissa,
I am so excited for your trip to Paraguay! The ruins are definitely a well worth Gem to visit.
My day in Paraguay was in July 2010 so I am unsure as to how much it has changed since then. I did not encounter any unpleasant experiences or feel threatened whilst I was there.
The only time I thought it was sketchy was when I was waiting on the side of the road to flag down a bus I didn’t know would come or not. The locals there while I waited had no interest in me whatsoever, so I felt safe.
Travelling solo, as you know, we rely on the goodness of people and in general I have had very few bad experiences.
If you don’t know any Spanish you should get some under your belt as I had to rely on locals in Encarnacion for directions to the bus and which bus to get. The basics should see you through the day.
Another thing to note is that getting the one day visa is simple; if you have everything from the check list online when you get to the Paraguayan consulate (it’s my favourite visa!).
I hope this has been helpful and if you have any further questions feel free to ask.
Happy Travels,
Ruby