Most people (aka non-surfers) believe we’re laidback to the point of laziness.
We may enjoy a good old Spanish-style siesta, but what you don’t see is us up before dawn in search of the perfect wave. In general, we’re coming back from our first surf of the day as everyone else blinks their eyes open for the first time.
It was 5 am when I stumbled out of bed to the headland.
My eyes began to adjust and as I thought, there were no decent waves. Expecting this, I’d already picked out a couple of breaks that the charts indicated would be pumping in comparison so headed to my pre-loaded car.
As first light turned into sunrise I pulled out onto the highway. Xavier Rudd cranking, I picked up my thermos of tea and let the blur consume me. I passed no-one.
Soon I was in my first carpark for the day and watched the pitiful sets roll in. Other surfers joined me: all with the same deep in thought stare, entranced in the search.
I reversed out of the lot and continued my journey south. There were definitely a few better options on the cards. With the winds predicted to change in a couple of hours and the tides prime I continued.
Break by break I searched. Each one better than the next, but each with its faults: inconsistent sets, too crowded, tides are wrong, it’s closing out, too sucky, not sucky enough… the excuses rattled off as I continued to drive further south.
Four hours later, I was satisfied. It was definitely the best wave I’d seen all morning and barely a soul out so decided it was time. After all, if I kept going I’d end up in Victoria with a mammoth drive home.
Quickly, I pulled on my surf capsule and ran down to the water. I chose a peak further down the beach with no-one on it. It was definitely worth the extra walk: wave after wave I had all too myself.
Finally I dragged myself out of the water only because I was in desperate need of a feed. After gorging myself it was time to head home. Beach by beach, in search of the next wave of the day… or research for tomorrow’s surf check…?
Either way I can’t deny it—I’m addicted to the surf check. Are you?