The President strikes again …
Before leaving Turkey’s capital city, Ankara, we headed to the Atatürk Mausoleum. The mausoleum for Atatürk is one of the major and what some could say only site to see whilst visiting Ankara. There was a heavy police and military presence at the entrance, and this alerted our guide that something was up. A very stern looking military officer immediately re-directed our bus out of the entrance drive and up the road. It seems the President or the Prime Minister (soon to become President) had decided to have a pre-election visit to the Mausoleum, again disrupting our tour of the country. Skipping Ankara completely after this disruption, the bus was back on the open road and the drive to Cappadocia. The tour would now arrive early into the region with many on the bus opting to spend these extra hours with an authentic Turkish Bath experience; Hamam.
Sitting on a bus is definitely a tedious and exhausting way to spend the day. With the drive broken up every two hours, we literally had been sitting on the bus for over 24 hours (including sleep stop in Ankara) before we reached our destination. Oh my, was it worth it! Our first glimpse of chimneys catapulted us from our zombie state and replaced it with pure excitement, off loading from the bus several times for photo opportunities until we finally reached the hotel.
Originally I was set on visiting the Hamam. But after seeing the chimneys, I opted for a solo hike instead, which the guide willingly permitted. I changed into my gear and felt out of place on the bus full of people preparing for an afternoon of scrubbing and massages. I was extremely happy with my decision for a hike though. As the group piled into the Hamam, I set off aimlessly with two hours to explore on my own. I climbed up a ridge between two small towns and was just in time for prayers. My breathing slowed, and in silence I stood on top of the ridge overlooking Cappadocia with prayers drifting up from the mosques scattered around. I delved deeper into the area, exploring chimney homes, converted uni stables and just the sheer size of the area. Heading back to meet the bus, I arrived on the dot to find that most of the group were only halfway through their sessions. How did I spend this time? In true Turkish style of course: with tea and games of backgammon.
After everyone had trickled out of the Hamam, it was a quick rush to shower and change for a family dinner experience. This dinner was included on the tour and I was saddened to learn the restaurant was no longer a family home. With the success the family received after opening their family dinner experience, the restaurant had blossomed and had multiple rooms. The room just fit the thirty of us into its walls with everyone jammed in tight, sitting on the floor surrounded by Turkish rugs. Authentic Turkish foods of all forms were placed in front of us and by the time the main arrived I could only manage to fit half into my already swollen stomach. The food also distracted us from the overcrowded space, making it a truly enjoyable experience. With our bellies full, we all went into a happy food coma and we were ready to take on the group hike led by our guide in the morning.
I rolled out of bed bright and early, excited about what the day would bring. If you do take this tour make sure you pack good walking shoes with good grip. Some of the group struggled wearing vans as many of the surfaces were quite smooth and steep. It was interesting taking the group hike as the guide explained all the chimney structures and pigeon houses, resulting in my walk the previous day taking on new meaning. If you enjoy rock climbing, Cappadocia is the place, as there are ample of opportunities to climb up to the different floors of the chimneys and also up some steep climbs to chimney churches. After the casual paced hike we then visited other chimney areas for photo opportunities and quick exploration before lunch and an afternoon of free time. The weather turned as we visited our last stop – the camel – and we were all disappointed and felt our afternoon plans had been ruined. Deciding I could beat the foul weather, I put on my bikini and made my way to the pool. What happens next I assure you is real … I stretched out on a day bed next to the pool and instantly the sun breached the clouds and my skin tingled, absorbing the vitamin D.
Exhausted but enthusiastic, our third and final day in Cappadocia started leisurely and was going to be amazing. On the way out of Cappadocia the tour dropped in to a pottery company, where we learnt the traditional methods of Turkish pot making. The pottery visit was full of great humor with members of the group getting the opportunity to make pots using the traditional methods, including costume change. With all the pottery well out of my price range, I carefully made my way through the showroom, ensuring I didn’t touch anything: definitely felt like a two year old. Back on the bus and our energy was at a peak as we made the drive to Kaymakli Underground City.
Kaymakli: an incredible place.The city is a complex design of hand dug tunnels, delving eight floors deep into the rock. With a constant cool temperature, it is no wonder the people found comfort living under the ground in such a hot region of the world. There is a well-lit path with arrows you cannot miss for tourists to follow. The added bonus of a knowledgable guide provided us with commentary on how life was carried out in the tunnels. I was overwhelmed with the sense of being in an Indiana Jones movie and it wasn’t long before a few of us strayed on our own mini adventure. We made our way, passing through unlit tunnels, deeper and deeper, well off the usual tour paths. With round stone doors jumping up, we kept on going. The further we delved, the more interesting and incredible the place came. Realising we had now strayed for a long time and our tour most likely moved out of the city, we ran back upwards, retracing our steps to the sounds of the Indiana Jones theme song. All I needed was a whip and hat and the moment would have been complete. Leaving the tunnels, I was instantly saddened. Not only was I leaving the underground city but I was also leaving Cappadocia.
Back on the bus I felt myself drifitng back to the mystical land of Cappadocia with my daydreams disrupted by our arrival into Konya; just a stopover on the way to Fethiye.